Vintage Fashion Icon Doug Bihlmaier Auctions Rare Collection

A remarkable collection of vintage fashion pieces will be available for purchase starting on December 13, 2023, featuring over 100 items curated by renowned vintage specialist Doug Bihlmaier. Known for his influential role at Ralph Lauren, Bihlmaier is widely regarded as a key figure behind the Double RL brand, which has become synonymous with Americana style.

After four decades as a buyer for Ralph Lauren, Bihlmaier, aged 72, has transitioned into the role of a style icon. His unique ability to blend styles and eras has garnered attention from younger fashion enthusiasts on social media. The upcoming sale, hosted by collector and friend Cameron Steiner on his vintage and antiques website, Collectors Gene, will showcase a diverse range of items, including workwear, denim, boots, belts, jewelry, and hats.

Bihlmaier’s extensive collection reflects years of dedicated sourcing, both for his employer and for personal enjoyment. His closets and approximately 40 plastic tubs are filled with a remarkable array of garments, from rare workwear to vintage flannels and military gear. Now, as he enjoys a more laid-back lifestyle in East Hampton, NY, he has opted to downsize his wardrobe.

“I talked to a few close friends and said, ‘Man, I should sell some of this stuff’ — because of my ill-earned popularity on style websites,” Bihlmaier explained. To prepare for the sale, he meticulously selected some of his rarest pieces, many of which are characterized by their oversized fits, reflecting his personal style preferences.

Steiner, who has accompanied Bihlmaier on this journey, emphasized his friend’s innate talent for fashion. “Some people are born with a great eye,” he noted. “I think the Italians call it sprezzatura, this effortless cool chic. To me, that’s what Doug is. It’s the American workwear version of sprezzatura.”

Among the unique items available for purchase is a vintage corduroy hunting jacket that Bihlmaier discovered on Portobello Road in London. Despite its worn condition, Bihlmaier recognized its potential. “One of my friends put it back together, and every time I wore it to work, everyone said, ‘That’s a great coat,’” he reminisced. The jacket will be listed at $1,200 during the sale.

Other notable offerings include 1980s-vintage tweed jackets from the London store Hackett priced at $1,250 and above, as well as work shirts from the 1920s and 1930s starting at $550. A Double RL sweater from the early 1990s will be available for $1,850. Despite the anticipated high prices, Bihlmaier remains skeptical about the market’s willingness to pay for his well-loved items.

“Hopefully, it works,” he said regarding the sale. “If it doesn’t work, it’ll go back in my closet.” As vintage fashion continues to capture the imagination of collectors and enthusiasts worldwide, Bihlmaier’s sale represents a unique opportunity for fashion aficionados to acquire pieces from a legendary figure in the industry.